New Review: Gabriel Rucker's Canard
Canard's Duck Stack: pancakes, duck gravy, Tabasco onions, and a fried duck egg [Photo: Mattie John Bamman] |
My latest Portland restaurant review features Le Pigeon sister-restaurant Canard and is now on newsstands. You don't want to miss this one: Canard turns fine-dining on its head—and even makes it accessible.
Originally published in WWeek:
With Canard, Star Chef Gabriel Rucker Unleashes the Full Breadth of His Creativity
"Canard is the third restaurant by Gabriel Rucker, the Portland chef WWhas called the most talented of his generation. At his other two restaurants, Le Pigeon and Little Bird Bistro, Rucker's innovative menus are equally inspired by Americana junk food and French fine dining. Canard's is no less shocking.
There's foie gras-infused bourbon ($15), foie gras dumplings ($18) and the Duck Stack—fluffy pancakes with Tabasco onions, duck gravy and a fried duck egg—with optional foie gras for $15. Most dishes take equally bold chances: steak tartare ($16) with Chinese sausage and cashews, uni "Texas toast" ($14), dry-aged petite New York steak with French onion soup sauce ($20)..."
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